Tsukiji fish market
Tsukiji Fish Market: Tokyo’s Iconic Gateway to the Sea
The Tsukiji Fish Market, once the largest wholesale seafood market in the world, stood as a living symbol of Tokyo’s relationship with the sea. For over eight decades, it served as a bustling hub of commerce, culture, and culinary tradition. Although its inner market operations officially moved to the new Toyosu Market in 2018, Tsukiji’s legacy continues to ripple through the streets of Tokyo and the global seafood industry. To understand Tsukiji is to delve into the heart of Japanese cuisine, urban evolution, and a society deeply connected to the rhythms of nature.
A Brief Historical Overview
Tsukiji’s story is one of resilience and reinvention. The original fish market in Tokyo was located in Nihonbashi, established during the Edo period (1603–1868). However, the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 devastated much of the city, including the market. In response, a new facility was planned and constructed in the Tsukiji district—meaning “reclaimed land”—by Tokyo Bay.
The market officially opened in 1935 and quickly became integral to the city’s food distribution system. More than just a place to buy and sell fish, Tsukiji evolved into a complex ecosystem where traditions, techniques, and relationships were passed down through generations. It became not only a local treasure but a global phenomenon.
Structure and Layout: Inner and Outer Markets
Tsukiji Fish Market was divided into two main areas: the inner market and the outer market.
The inner market, or jonai shijo, was the core of Tsukiji’s operations. It housed hundreds of licensed wholesale dealers known as nakaoroshi gyōsha, auction areas, processing spaces, and narrow aisles stacked with polystyrene boxes filled with ice and freshly caught seafood. This was where the famous tuna auctions took place, drawing curious onlookers and culinary professionals alike. Access to the inner market was once limited to those with business permits, though tourists were later allowed in restricted areas during designated hours.
The outer market, or jogai shijo, was more accessible to the general public. It featured a network of shops, restaurants, and stalls selling everything from dried seaweed to tamagoyaki (sweet rolled omelet), kitchen tools, and gourmet ingredients. This area was especially popular among tourists, foodies, and professional chefs seeking the highest quality products for their kitchens.
The Tuna Auction: A Cultural Spectacle
Perhaps the most iconic event at Tsukiji was the early-morning tuna auction, a ritualistic performance as much as it was a business transaction. Giant bluefin tuna, caught in waters from Japan to the Atlantic, were lined up for inspection. Buyers—mainly sushi restaurant owners and wholesalers—used small flashlights, metal hooks, and their senses to inspect the fish’s quality. Then came the bidding, conducted through a rapid-fire series of hand signals and shouts that seemed almost incomprehensible to outsiders.
Prices varied widely based on quality, size, and provenance. In 2013, a record was set when a single Pacific bluefin tuna fetched over 155 million yen (roughly $1.8 million at the time). While such prices were exceptional, they underscored Tsukiji’s position at the epicenter of the high-stakes global seafood trade.
A Day in the Life
A typical day at Tsukiji began well before dawn. By 3 a.m., trucks and boats had begun delivering seafood from ports across Japan and the world. By 5 a.m., auctions were in full swing, with fish being inspected, auctioned, and carted off to retail buyers. The narrow aisles bustled with activity as carts known as turret trucks zipped past at high speed, delivering orders to waiting vendors and restaurants.
By mid-morning, much of the day’s core business had wrapped up. Shops in the outer market opened to the public, and tourists would flock in, sampling sushi, sashimi, and grilled seafood fresh from the morning’s catch. By early afternoon, the market began to quiet down, and cleanup operations commenced. The cycle would begin anew the next morning.
The Move to Toyosu and Tsukiji’s Future
In October 2018, after years of planning and controversy, the inner wholesale market officially relocated to a new, modern facility in Toyosu, a few kilometers to the east. The move was prompted by concerns over aging infrastructure, sanitation, and space constraints. Toyosu Market boasts climate-controlled auction rooms, improved hygiene standards, and an earthquake-resistant structure.
However, the move was met with mixed reactions. Many lamented the loss of Tsukiji’s gritty charm, the closeness between buyer and seller, and the historical atmosphere that could not be replicated in a sterile new building. Some vendors chose not to move, opting instead to remain in the outer market area, which continues to thrive.
Today, Tsukiji’s outer market remains a vibrant culinary destination, preserving the spirit of the original market. It has evolved into a cultural district where old meets new: traditional knife shops sit next to trendy coffee bars, and street-side stalls offer both age-old recipes and modern twists on Japanese classics.
Cultural Significance and Global Impact
Beyond its commercial importance, Tsukiji held deep cultural significance. It was a symbol of Japanese craftsmanship, discipline, and the nation’s profound respect for food. The careful handling of seafood, from catch to table, reflected the Japanese concept of mottainai—a reverence for resources and a desire to avoid waste.
Tsukiji also played a major role in globalizing Japanese cuisine. Sushi chefs from across the world came to learn, observe, and purchase fish at the source. The market featured in documentaries, films, and travel shows, boosting international interest in Japanese culinary arts and Tokyo’s food scene.
Final Thoughts
The Tsukiji Fish Market was more than just a marketplace—it was a living, breathing organism and a cornerstone of Tokyo‘s cultural and economic landscape. While the move to Toyosu marked the end of an era, Tsukiji’s legacy lives on. Its outer market continues to pulse with life, its traditions influence chefs around the world, and its story remains a testament to Japan’s ability to honor the past while navigating the demands of the future.
For those who walk the narrow alleys of Tsukiji’s remaining shops, the echoes of auction calls, the aroma of fresh fish, and the spirit of dedication are still palpable. Tsukiji may have changed, but it has not vanished—it endures, like the tide, in constant motion yet deeply rooted in place.
